We left Ucluelet on a beautiful sunny day and set sails in a nice 10 knot NW breeze, bound for our first anchorage at Turtle Bay. We crossed Sargison Bank (reputed to be a great fishing spot) and entered Loudoun Channel proper. It was already afternoon, and we enjoyed an easy downwind run West by North, passing the Turtle Island group to starboard before bringing the wind to the starboard quarter for the run westward up Peacock Channel toward the pass into the bay.
The wind was so nice and the day so enjoyable that we were not quite ready to see it end. So as we ran out of sea room near Keith Island we came about onto the port tack and beam reached back out into the channel. Finally, the westering sun forced us to drop sails and motor in through the northeastern gap in the circular chain of islands that form Turtle Bay. The bay is quite large and totally protected, offering a multitude of anchoring choices. We opted for a quiet spot behind a small islet north of Turtle Island, our nearest neighbor several hundred yards away.
Our first evening on the hook was highlighted by an extended cocktail hour, most of the crew enjoying a warm evening in the cockpit while Muki prepared the first of many great dinners. It had taken multiple carries to transfer the supplies the girls had brought to Uclewlet from car to boat, and now we had to focus on consuming vast quantities of gourmet dishes that Muki produced in a steady stream.
Turtle Bay was a quiet place the night we were there, with two other sailboats anchored on the north side of the bay, a couple of power boats snuggled into small coves on the south side, and Betty Lou occupying the center. Six islands of various sizes in a rough circle form the bay, offering lots of great exploring by dinghy or kayak. Slip out through any of the passes to find great little stone and shell beaches with views out into the sound.
We motored out of the bay the next morning without a firm itinerary, except that we would end the day at another protected anchorage at Nettle Island. The morning was windless, so we continued under power to Sand Island and did a slow circumnavigation. Muki, Scott and I had spend several days camped here in 1988 while on a sea-kayaking visi to Barkley Sound. Our oldest daughter Chelsea was with us then, already a veteran kayaker at the tender age of 2. Sand Island is one of several in Barkley Sound with designated campgrounds, and we had a great time there. The campground is in a meadow in the center of the small island, and trails lead off in three directions, each to a separate perfect beach.
Leaving Sand Island, we shaped a course towards the Pinkerton Group. We had on board a chart of the area used by Betty Lou's previous owner, Tom Schneider, on his trip to the sound years earlier. There were several intriguing locations marked on the chart in this small, compact group of islands, and we needed a place to drop the lunch hook. The Pinkertons are nestled up close to the mainland at the north end of the sound, and offer several secluded anchorages for one or two boats and great dinghy or kayak exploration in the narrow passages between the many many islands. We followed decades old pencil lines drawn on Tom's chart into a shallow bay, then carefully and slowly eased Betty Lou into a tiny rock-line cove and dropped anchor in two fathoms.
The day was warm, sunny and windless. The crystal-clear water was just too inviting, so Tim, Scott and I took the dinghy to shore for a swim. Tim donned his wetsuit, mask and fins, while Scott and I just stripped to the skin and dove in. The water was warm in the sun-dappled shallows, and we swam and dove along the shore for an hour. I finally swam back to Betty Lou, lured by the promise of a cold beer and hot lunch. We spent most of the afternoon lying about the deck and cockpit, never seeing another boat.
Tom's old chart still has a couple of other secret spots marked in the Pinkertons, and I plan on checking them out the next time we come this way. But for now, we are off to Nettle Island. The anchor chain rattled its way down into the chain locker and we eased out of the narrow entrance cut, heading southeast down Sechart Channel toward our next anchorage at Nettle Island.
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